These are Lembergers of astounding clarity, energy and finesse. We’re farther north, in a cooler place, so this is a leaner version of most Austrian Baufränkisches. Yet here, in the north, they are no less deep, just more gaunt, more taut. Their sinewy, lean, herbal, smoky mineral grip recalls something of the rustic, deep layers of the Northern Rhône. The energy is palpable.