This one is spherical and roasty and smoky, all the things it can be at its healthiest, but it also has lift and a fresh silvery spine that I swear “feels” mineral. There’s also a sophisticated and articulate tannin, just after the mid-palate and before the finish, and you think “This wine isn’t simple at all…” The refined fruit of Zweigelt is replaced here with a char-marked lustiness.